alp247

So I had it originally marked. I just removed the cap/rotor and manually turned the engine until I hit tdc. If it didn't line up on my original marking then I removed it and manually moved it until I hit tdc. It finally lined up perfectly and I knew it would fire up. It stared up as soon as I turned the key. Thanks for the advice and it made me look for my original marking. Now time to clean it up and have my inspection again and smog. I guess I better drive it around and burn out the old fuel.

Took the engine apart to replace headgasket and I thought I marked the distcap before removing it. I Had the engine at top dead center. Now I'm not sure where it is as I cranked it a few times. Sputtered and didn't crank over. Any adivice on how I should resetting the timing? Hopefully I don't have to open the valve cover

Can you PM me if you have price for the power steering box. Not the pump the one near the brake booster. Oh and if you have a the hot side of the turbo housing thanks

Ok I guess I have been changing the wrong sensor because I have not been able to get my gauge to work in the cluster panel. when looking from the driver side of he engine bay starting from the front of the engine there is a 2 prong sensor (assuming this is the gauge temp), next is the sensor that for the AC that is connected to thermostat housing, and then there is this other 2 prong sensor. What is the function of that sensor do? I think I installed the thermo sensor for the cluster in that location? just FYI this is a 1989 auto so think its different than a manual sensor. part numbers would be great so I can order them

I finger tight them last time randy and I think they might have backed out so I had a heafgasket leak. Decided to do to re do it over rather than just re tighten the bolts

Questsale PM me thanks. It's not the threads is the Allen key that's stripped as I wan to torque then down to 10lbs

I need only two in anyone has some extras they can sell to me, thanks. Messed mine up removing them.

oops just realized i posted in the wrong room can someone move this?

I actually only need two. so if anyone has some extras for sale that would be nice. For some reason removing them i stripped the top of them so i don't want to buy a whole new set, thanks. I believe they are all the same, right? 1989 conquest i have just in case.

ok i guess i need to take the top end part.... sigh.

ok i think i fixed it.

Ok I hope this link works for The pics I'm posting http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e214/alp247/Mobile%20Uploads/1533191A-4D08-425D-94C9-290208B0E1AF.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e214/alp247/Mobile%20Uploads/4C782F4A-180C-4D51-A600-D5ABD925A680.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e214/alp247/Mobile%20Uploads/A16A2DFE-11B9-4FFE-9655-2E98AE492DF7.jpg http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e214/alp247/Mobile%20Uploads/3A5B520D-34F9-4963-90C0-B34742E550F6.jpg

StarquestRescue, I took the whole turbo off and just looked at it complete. I didn't unclip anything yet but when I look at the exhaust side of the turbo I can see nothing but white crust like water has been evaporating in there. When I turned off my car I can hear like a water leak spraying inside the exhaust so that's how I determined the leak to be somewhere in that location. I'll unclip the turbine housing and take some pictures so can give you guys more info to help me determine what i need. Thanks everyone for the feedback! Oh I'm located in CA, San Jose if anyone is local.

If you change the turbine housing on the turbo. Will it affect the balance? Mine is cracked so I need to replace it. If anyone had one they can sell or give please PM me, thanks.

I had the same issue. What I did was soak the hell out of it with PB blaster my friend told Me I it works and swore by it. I ignored his advice for a week then tried it. Soaked the area for 1 day. Tapped the top of the studs with a hammer and soaked it. Did it a few times before the next day and got a good hefty set of vise grips and they can off. Hope this works for u as well